TV Mounting in Geraldton

For seated viewing, the centre of the screen should sit at seated eye level — roughly 100-110 cm (40-43 inches) from the floor for a sofa. For a 65-inch TV that means the bottom edge sits around 60-70 cm up. Mount higher only if you use a tilting mount, e.g. above a fireplace or in a bedroom viewed from the bed.

Under 43 inches is a reasonable DIY job if you can find studs and use a level. From 55 inches up, a second pair of hands is essential and mistakes get expensive — a 65-inch panel weighs 20-25 kg and modern bezel-less screens crack easily if gripped wrong. Professionals also carry stud finders, cable detectors, and masonry drills most households lack.

A standard install on a stud or masonry wall takes 30-90 minutes. Add 1-2 hours if cables are being concealed inside the wall, and more again for above-fireplace installs or walls that need reinforcement. Book a 2-hour window to be safe.

Yes — brick and concrete are actually stronger than drywall for mounting. The installer uses a hammer drill and masonry anchors (sleeve or wedge anchors). It costs more than a stud wall because drilling is slower and cable concealment usually has to run in surface trunking rather than inside the wall.

Usually only with the landlord's written permission, since mounting leaves 4-6 anchor holes. Many tenancy agreements class it as an alteration. Alternatives that need no drilling: a TV floor stand, or a heavy-duty easel-style mount. If you do get permission, keep the mount and ask the installer to patch holes when you move out — it is a quick filler-and-paint job.

No. Unlike the US or UK, Australia prohibits all DIY fixed wiring — a new power point must be installed by a licensed electrician, who will supply a certificate of compliance. Most TV installers either partner with a sparky or route an existing outlet's leads through in-wall rated cable management instead.

Usually yes, by roughly 20-50%. Much of Australia's older housing stock (especially WA and older east-coast suburbs) is double brick, which needs a hammer drill and masonry anchors, and in-wall cable concealment is generally not possible — installers use paintable surface duct instead.