TV Mounting near you in Australia

Yes if done properly, but check two things: heat (run the fireplace for 30 minutes and confirm the wall above stays below about 40C / 100F, or fit a mantel to deflect heat) and viewing angle (a pull-down or tilting mount stops neck strain). Above-fireplace installs cost more because the wall is usually brick or stone and cable routing is harder.

Most will, as a small add-on — typically a quarter to half the price of a fresh install. Dismount-and-remount in a new home (or after moving the sofa) is a standard job; mention it when booking so the installer brings patching filler for the old holes.

Small TVs (under about 40 inches) can go on hollow drywall with heavy-duty toggle anchors rated for the load, but most professionals prefer to hit at least one stud or install a plywood backing board. For TVs over 50 inches, mounting into studs or masonry is strongly recommended — anchor-only installs on hollow walls are the most common cause of fallen TVs.

For seated viewing, the centre of the screen should sit at seated eye level — roughly 100-110 cm (40-43 inches) from the floor for a sofa. For a 65-inch TV that means the bottom edge sits around 60-70 cm up. Mount higher only if you use a tilting mount, e.g. above a fireplace or in a bedroom viewed from the bed.

Either works. Buying your own mount is usually cheaper — check it matches your TV's VESA pattern (the four bolt holes on the back, e.g. 400x400) and its rated weight. Many installers also sell mounts on the day at a markup of roughly 20-50% over retail. If you buy your own, tell the installer the model so they bring the right fixings.

No. Unlike the US or UK, Australia prohibits all DIY fixed wiring — a new power point must be installed by a licensed electrician, who will supply a certificate of compliance. Most TV installers either partner with a sparky or route an existing outlet's leads through in-wall rated cable management instead.

Usually yes, by roughly 20-50%. Much of Australia's older housing stock (especially WA and older east-coast suburbs) is double brick, which needs a hammer drill and masonry anchors, and in-wall cable concealment is generally not possible — installers use paintable surface duct instead.