TV Mounting in California

Fixed mounts sit flattest against the wall and are cheapest. Tilting mounts angle down 5-15 degrees — useful when the TV sits above eye level. Full-motion (articulating) mounts extend and swivel, which suits corner installs or rooms with multiple viewing positions; they cost the most and need the most secure fixing because the load hangs away from the wall.

Yes, and it is cheaper to bundle than to book twice. Soundbar brackets attach either to the wall below the TV or to the TV mount itself. Consoles and set-top boxes go on a small floating shelf or behind-TV bracket. Expect a modest add-on charge per extra device, plus cable management for each.

Yes — brick and concrete are actually stronger than drywall for mounting. The installer uses a hammer drill and masonry anchors (sleeve or wedge anchors). It costs more than a stud wall because drilling is slower and cable concealment usually has to run in surface trunking rather than inside the wall.

A professional installer should carry public liability insurance that covers wall damage and a dropped or fallen TV. Ask for proof before booking, and ask whether they guarantee their fixings (many offer 12 months or lifetime on workmanship). Keep the receipt — home insurance claims for fallen TVs often hinge on showing it was professionally installed.

No permit is needed for the mounting or for running low-voltage cables in the wall cavity. A permit and/or licensed electrician is typically required only if you add a new power receptacle behind the TV. Many installers bundle a code-compliant power relocation kit instead, which avoids the permit.

In-wall concealment on drywall typically adds $100-$300 on top of the base mount price, and $150-$500 if a code-compliant power relocation kit or new outlet is included. On brick or stone, expect surface raceway (paintable trunking) instead, usually $50-$150.