TV Mounting in San Diego

Yes, and it is cheaper to bundle than to book twice. Soundbar brackets attach either to the wall below the TV or to the TV mount itself. Consoles and set-top boxes go on a small floating shelf or behind-TV bracket. Expect a modest add-on charge per extra device, plus cable management for each.

Most will, as a small add-on — typically a quarter to half the price of a fresh install. Dismount-and-remount in a new home (or after moving the sofa) is a standard job; mention it when booking so the installer brings patching filler for the old holes.

Usually only with the landlord's written permission, since mounting leaves 4-6 anchor holes. Many tenancy agreements class it as an alteration. Alternatives that need no drilling: a TV floor stand, or a heavy-duty easel-style mount. If you do get permission, keep the mount and ask the installer to patch holes when you move out — it is a quick filler-and-paint job.

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

No permit is needed for the mounting or for running low-voltage cables in the wall cavity. A permit and/or licensed electrician is typically required only if you add a new power receptacle behind the TV. Many installers bundle a code-compliant power relocation kit instead, which avoids the permit.

In-wall concealment on drywall typically adds $100-$300 on top of the base mount price, and $150-$500 if a code-compliant power relocation kit or new outlet is included. On brick or stone, expect surface raceway (paintable trunking) instead, usually $50-$150.