TV Mounting in Pittwater

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

A standard install on a stud or masonry wall takes 30-90 minutes. Add 1-2 hours if cables are being concealed inside the wall, and more again for above-fireplace installs or walls that need reinforcement. Book a 2-hour window to be safe.

A professional installer should carry public liability insurance that covers wall damage and a dropped or fallen TV. Ask for proof before booking, and ask whether they guarantee their fixings (many offer 12 months or lifetime on workmanship). Keep the receipt — home insurance claims for fallen TVs often hinge on showing it was professionally installed.

Fixed mounts sit flattest against the wall and are cheapest. Tilting mounts angle down 5-15 degrees — useful when the TV sits above eye level. Full-motion (articulating) mounts extend and swivel, which suits corner installs or rooms with multiple viewing positions; they cost the most and need the most secure fixing because the load hangs away from the wall.

No. Unlike the US or UK, Australia prohibits all DIY fixed wiring — a new power point must be installed by a licensed electrician, who will supply a certificate of compliance. Most TV installers either partner with a sparky or route an existing outlet's leads through in-wall rated cable management instead.

Usually yes, by roughly 20-50%. Much of Australia's older housing stock (especially WA and older east-coast suburbs) is double brick, which needs a hammer drill and masonry anchors, and in-wall cable concealment is generally not possible — installers use paintable surface duct instead.