Tiling in Ulu Bedok

Removal is priced per square metre and depends on what's underneath: tiles on board come off fast, tiles on thick sand-cement beds are slow, noisy demolition work. Budget for substrate repairs after removal — you rarely know the wall or floor condition until tiles are off.

Tilers price labour per square metre (or square foot), with tiles, adhesive, grout and prep on top. Small-format ceramic on a flat floor is the base rate; large-format porcelain, natural stone, mosaics, herringbone patterns and wall work all cost more per unit because they are slower and less forgiving.

Confirm five things: substrate prep (levelling, boards), waterproofing in wet areas, adhesive and grout type, cuts and trims (edge profiles), and silicone to finish. Tiles themselves are usually excluded, and removing old tiles is a separate line that can rival the laying cost.

Sometimes — if the old tiles are solidly bonded and the extra height works at doors and fittings, tiling over is legitimate and avoids messy removal. It fails when old tiles are drummy (hollow-sounding) or the wall can't take the weight. A good tiler taps and checks before promising either way.

Yes — tiles and grout are not waterproof; the membrane behind them is. Most countries mandate or strongly standardize wet-area waterproofing, and it must cure before tiling. If a bathroom quote doesn't mention waterproofing, that is the question to ask before anything else.

Either works, but you usually choose and buy tiles yourself and the tiler supplies adhesive, grout and trims. Order 10-15% extra for cuts and breakage (more for patterns and large formats) and keep leftovers for future repairs. Have tiles on site before the tiler starts.

Overlay is cheaper, faster and permit-light but raises the floor ~15-20mm and only works over sound tiles. Hacking resets everything but needs an HDB permit, waterproofing redo and noisy-work scheduling. Most full renovations hack; budget refreshes overlay.