TV Mounting in Surfers Paradise

Either works. Buying your own mount is usually cheaper — check it matches your TV's VESA pattern (the four bolt holes on the back, e.g. 400x400) and its rated weight. Many installers also sell mounts on the day at a markup of roughly 20-50% over retail. If you buy your own, tell the installer the model so they bring the right fixings.

Yes, and it is cheaper to bundle than to book twice. Soundbar brackets attach either to the wall below the TV or to the TV mount itself. Consoles and set-top boxes go on a small floating shelf or behind-TV bracket. Expect a modest add-on charge per extra device, plus cable management for each.

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

A standard install on a stud or masonry wall takes 30-90 minutes. Add 1-2 hours if cables are being concealed inside the wall, and more again for above-fireplace installs or walls that need reinforcement. Book a 2-hour window to be safe.

No. Unlike the US or UK, Australia prohibits all DIY fixed wiring — a new power point must be installed by a licensed electrician, who will supply a certificate of compliance. Most TV installers either partner with a sparky or route an existing outlet's leads through in-wall rated cable management instead.

Usually yes, by roughly 20-50%. Much of Australia's older housing stock (especially WA and older east-coast suburbs) is double brick, which needs a hammer drill and masonry anchors, and in-wall cable concealment is generally not possible — installers use paintable surface duct instead.