Drain Cleaning in Diepsloot

Kitchen lines: grease and food solids. Bathrooms: hair and soap scum. Toilets: wipes (including 'flushable' ones) and sanitary products. Outside: tree roots entering pipe joints and silt. Knowing the likely cause helps the plumber bring the right machine first visit.

A drain snake (electric eel/auger) bores a hole through the blockage — fast and cheap, but debris and grease remain on pipe walls. Hydro jetting scours the full pipe diameter with high-pressure water, clearing grease, scale and roots properly. Jetting costs more but lasts longer for recurring blocks.

Relining inserts a resin-saturated liner into the damaged pipe and cures it in place — a new pipe inside the old one, with no excavation. It usually beats dig-and-replace where the pipe runs under driveways, slabs or landscaping, and most liners carry multi-decade warranties.

Generally you own the pipes within your property boundary, while shared or public sewers are the utility's (or body corporate's) problem. If sewage backs up from a shared line, report it to the utility before paying a private contractor — it may be cleared free.

Caustic supermarket products sometimes clear light soap/hair partial blocks, but they don't touch grease plugs or roots, they damage older pipes and seals, and they make the drain hazardous for the plumber who eventually opens it. For a fully blocked drain, go mechanical.

If the blockage is in the municipal sewer (beyond your erf boundary/connection point), log a fault with the municipality — they clear their side free. You pay only for blockages in your private drainage; a plumber can quickly tell which side is choked.