TV Mounting in Bath

For seated viewing, the centre of the screen should sit at seated eye level — roughly 100-110 cm (40-43 inches) from the floor for a sofa. For a 65-inch TV that means the bottom edge sits around 60-70 cm up. Mount higher only if you use a tilting mount, e.g. above a fireplace or in a bedroom viewed from the bed.

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

Yes if done properly, but check two things: heat (run the fireplace for 30 minutes and confirm the wall above stays below about 40C / 100F, or fit a mantel to deflect heat) and viewing angle (a pull-down or tilting mount stops neck strain). Above-fireplace installs cost more because the wall is usually brick or stone and cable routing is harder.

A standard install on a stud or masonry wall takes 30-90 minutes. Add 1-2 hours if cables are being concealed inside the wall, and more again for above-fireplace installs or walls that need reinforcement. Book a 2-hour window to be safe.

Yes — dot-and-dab (plasterboard glued over brick or block, common in post-1980s UK homes) needs special fixings such as corefix bolts that pass through the board into the masonry behind. Standard plasterboard anchors alone are not safe for TVs over about 40 inches on these walls, so tell the installer if your wall sounds hollow but feels solid behind.

No. Hiding aerial and HDMI cables in the wall or in trunking is not notifiable work. Part P applies only if you add a new socket, fused spur, or extend a circuit behind the TV — that part must be done by a registered electrician (NICEIC/NAPIT) or notified to building control.