TV Mounting in Bishan New Town

Yes — brick and concrete are actually stronger than drywall for mounting. The installer uses a hammer drill and masonry anchors (sleeve or wedge anchors). It costs more than a stud wall because drilling is slower and cable concealment usually has to run in surface trunking rather than inside the wall.

Fixed mounts sit flattest against the wall and are cheapest. Tilting mounts angle down 5-15 degrees — useful when the TV sits above eye level. Full-motion (articulating) mounts extend and swivel, which suits corner installs or rooms with multiple viewing positions; they cost the most and need the most secure fixing because the load hangs away from the wall.

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

Not for the mounting itself. You need one only if you want a new power outlet behind the TV, since fixed wiring is electrician-only work in most countries. Many TV mounting companies partner with an electrician or offer the outlet as an add-on — ask when booking so it happens in one visit.

Usually only with the landlord's written permission, since mounting leaves 4-6 anchor holes. Many tenancy agreements class it as an alteration. Alternatives that need no drilling: a TV floor stand, or a heavy-duty easel-style mount. If you do get permission, keep the mount and ask the installer to patch holes when you move out — it is a quick filler-and-paint job.

Most walls yes, but not structural columns, beams, or reinforced-concrete walls (commonly the wall around the bomb shelter/store room). Drilling into structural members breaches HDB renovation rules. An experienced installer identifies safe walls on sight; partition walls in newer BTO flats may be drywall panels needing special anchors.

Because HDB and most condo walls are solid concrete — there is no cavity to drop cables into. Installers instead use slim paintable PVC trunking, typically included or a small add-on. True concealed wiring requires hacking a channel into concrete, which is a renovation-scale job requiring an HDB permit for certain walls.