Paving & Driveways in Northland

On a proper base: asphalt 15-25 years, concrete 25-40, block paving 25+ (with occasional re-sanding and weed control), gravel indefinitely with topping up. Sealing asphalt and concrete every few years extends life in harsh climates.

Yes — water must drain to a lawful outfall or soak into the ground. Many jurisdictions now require permeable paving or on-site soakaways when front gardens are paved, precisely to stop rain sheeting onto the street. A good contractor designs falls and drainage before laying anything.

Often yes — asphalt can be overlaid if the base is sound, concrete can sometimes be resurfaced or used as a base for pavers, and sunken block paving can be lifted and relaid on fresh bedding. If the base has failed (widespread cracking, deep ruts), resurfacing only buys a year or two.

A skimped sub-base. The surface layer gets the attention, but 100-200mm of properly compacted hardcore beneath it is what stops sinking, cracking and rutting. Quotes that are far below the rest usually save money underground where you cannot see it.

A typical residential driveway takes 2-5 days: excavation and sub-base first, then the surface. Asphalt is drivable within days; new concrete should cure about a week before taking a car's weight; pavers can be used almost immediately once compacted and sanded.

Gravel, by a wide margin — but it migrates, ruts and needs topping up. Asphalt is usually the cheapest solid surface, concrete lasts longer for slightly more, and pavers cost most upfront but can be lifted and relaid if services underneath need work.

The section crossing the berm and footpath is council land, needing its own permit, spec and inspection. It is often the most expensive part per square metre, and some councils keep a list of approved crossing contractors.