Tiling in Stróvolos

Ask tilers in Stróvolos for photos of finished wet rooms and floor-to-wall junctions — lippage (uneven tile edges), crooked grout lines and bad cuts around fittings are where cheap work shows. Good tilers also talk about substrate prep and waterproofing before they talk about tiles.

Either works, but you usually choose and buy tiles yourself and the tiler supplies adhesive, grout and trims. Order 10-15% extra for cuts and breakage (more for patterns and large formats) and keep leftovers for future repairs. Have tiles on site before the tiler starts.

Yes — tiles and grout are not waterproof; the membrane behind them is. Most countries mandate or strongly standardize wet-area waterproofing, and it must cure before tiling. If a bathroom quote doesn't mention waterproofing, that is the question to ask before anything else.

Sometimes — if the old tiles are solidly bonded and the extra height works at doors and fittings, tiling over is legitimate and avoids messy removal. It fails when old tiles are drummy (hollow-sounding) or the wall can't take the weight. A good tiler taps and checks before promising either way.

Confirm five things: substrate prep (levelling, boards), waterproofing in wet areas, adhesive and grout type, cuts and trims (edge profiles), and silicone to finish. Tiles themselves are usually excluded, and removing old tiles is a separate line that can rival the laying cost.

Tilers price labour per square metre (or square foot), with tiles, adhesive, grout and prep on top. Small-format ceramic on a flat floor is the base rate; large-format porcelain, natural stone, mosaics, herringbone patterns and wall work all cost more per unit because they are slower and less forgiving.

Tiled verandas need a proper membrane beneath the screed — tiles and grout alone let water through, and summer-winter thermal cycling opens joints. The fix is stripping back to slab, membrane, screed with falls, then retiling; sealing grout alone rarely lasts.