Tiling in Famagusta

Sometimes — if the old tiles are solidly bonded and the extra height works at doors and fittings, tiling over is legitimate and avoids messy removal. It fails when old tiles are drummy (hollow-sounding) or the wall can't take the weight. A good tiler taps and checks before promising either way.

Almost always substrate or installation, not the tile: movement in the floor, missing expansion joints, adhesive coverage too thin (spot-dabbing), or tiling over a drummy layer. Cracked single tiles from impact are replaceable if you kept spares — always keep a box.

Yes — tiles and grout are not waterproof; the membrane behind them is. Most countries mandate or strongly standardize wet-area waterproofing, and it must cure before tiling. If a bathroom quote doesn't mention waterproofing, that is the question to ask before anything else.

Removal is priced per square metre and depends on what's underneath: tiles on board come off fast, tiles on thick sand-cement beds are slow, noisy demolition work. Budget for substrate repairs after removal — you rarely know the wall or floor condition until tiles are off.

Either works, but you usually choose and buy tiles yourself and the tiler supplies adhesive, grout and trims. Order 10-15% extra for cuts and breakage (more for patterns and large formats) and keep leftovers for future repairs. Have tiles on site before the tiler starts.

Tilers price labour per square metre (or square foot), with tiles, adhesive, grout and prep on top. Small-format ceramic on a flat floor is the base rate; large-format porcelain, natural stone, mosaics, herringbone patterns and wall work all cost more per unit because they are slower and less forgiving.

Tiled verandas need a proper membrane beneath the screed — tiles and grout alone let water through, and summer-winter thermal cycling opens joints. The fix is stripping back to slab, membrane, screed with falls, then retiling; sealing grout alone rarely lasts.