Tiling in Hastings-Sunrise

Sometimes — if the old tiles are solidly bonded and the extra height works at doors and fittings, tiling over is legitimate and avoids messy removal. It fails when old tiles are drummy (hollow-sounding) or the wall can't take the weight. A good tiler taps and checks before promising either way.

Yes — tiles and grout are not waterproof; the membrane behind them is. Most countries mandate or strongly standardize wet-area waterproofing, and it must cure before tiling. If a bathroom quote doesn't mention waterproofing, that is the question to ask before anything else.

Either works, but you usually choose and buy tiles yourself and the tiler supplies adhesive, grout and trims. Order 10-15% extra for cuts and breakage (more for patterns and large formats) and keep leftovers for future repairs. Have tiles on site before the tiler starts.

Ask tilers in Hastings-Sunrise for photos of finished wet rooms and floor-to-wall junctions — lippage (uneven tile edges), crooked grout lines and bad cuts around fittings are where cheap work shows. Good tilers also talk about substrate prep and waterproofing before they talk about tiles.

A full bathroom (floor plus walls) typically takes 3-5 days: prep and waterproofing first, then setting, then grouting after the adhesive cures. Add days if old tiles must come off or the substrate needs levelling. Rushing cure times is the classic cause of cracked grout later.

Almost always substrate or installation, not the tile: movement in the floor, missing expansion joints, adhesive coverage too thin (spot-dabbing), or tiling over a drummy layer. Cracked single tiles from impact are replaceable if you kept spares — always keep a box.

On wood-framed floors and cracked or green concrete, yes — seasonal movement from freeze-thaw and humidity swings cracks rigidly bonded tile. Membranes (e.g. Schluter DITRA) are the accepted fix and most good tilers include them by default.