Tiling in British Columbia

Almost always substrate or installation, not the tile: movement in the floor, missing expansion joints, adhesive coverage too thin (spot-dabbing), or tiling over a drummy layer. Cracked single tiles from impact are replaceable if you kept spares — always keep a box.

Yes — tiles and grout are not waterproof; the membrane behind them is. Most countries mandate or strongly standardize wet-area waterproofing, and it must cure before tiling. If a bathroom quote doesn't mention waterproofing, that is the question to ask before anything else.

Removal is priced per square metre and depends on what's underneath: tiles on board come off fast, tiles on thick sand-cement beds are slow, noisy demolition work. Budget for substrate repairs after removal — you rarely know the wall or floor condition until tiles are off.

Either works, but you usually choose and buy tiles yourself and the tiler supplies adhesive, grout and trims. Order 10-15% extra for cuts and breakage (more for patterns and large formats) and keep leftovers for future repairs. Have tiles on site before the tiler starts.

Tilers price labour per square metre (or square foot), with tiles, adhesive, grout and prep on top. Small-format ceramic on a flat floor is the base rate; large-format porcelain, natural stone, mosaics, herringbone patterns and wall work all cost more per unit because they are slower and less forgiving.

Confirm five things: substrate prep (levelling, boards), waterproofing in wet areas, adhesive and grout type, cuts and trims (edge profiles), and silicone to finish. Tiles themselves are usually excluded, and removing old tiles is a separate line that can rival the laying cost.

On wood-framed floors and cracked or green concrete, yes — seasonal movement from freeze-thaw and humidity swings cracks rigidly bonded tile. Membranes (e.g. Schluter DITRA) are the accepted fix and most good tilers include them by default.