Paving & Driveways in Victoria

Driveway cost depends on area, material (asphalt, concrete, block/brick pavers, gravel, resin) and how much excavation and sub-base work is needed. Gravel is cheapest, asphalt and plain concrete mid-range, and block paving or resin-bound surfaces the most expensive per square metre. Quotes should always include excavation, sub-base depth and edging.

Yes. 'We have leftover asphalt from a job down the road' is a classic scam — the material is often laid thin over no base and fails within months, and the crew is untraceable. Reputable paving firms price from a site visit and written spec, not from surplus material on a truck.

On a proper base: asphalt 15-25 years, concrete 25-40, block paving 25+ (with occasional re-sanding and weed control), gravel indefinitely with topping up. Sealing asphalt and concrete every few years extends life in harsh climates.

Yes — water must drain to a lawful outfall or soak into the ground. Many jurisdictions now require permeable paving or on-site soakaways when front gardens are paved, precisely to stop rain sheeting onto the street. A good contractor designs falls and drainage before laying anything.

Often yes — asphalt can be overlaid if the base is sound, concrete can sometimes be resurfaced or used as a base for pavers, and sunken block paving can be lifted and relaid on fresh bedding. If the base has failed (widespread cracking, deep ruts), resurfacing only buys a year or two.

The strip between the road and your boundary belongs to council. It needs its own permit, inspection and often a heavier spec than the rest of the driveway, so contractors price it separately — and some make you contract with council-approved crews for that section.