Plastering in Morris Heights

Yes, if the substrate is sound — plasterers key the surface and use bonding agents. But blown (hollow-sounding), crumbling, or damp-stained plaster must come off first. A good plasterer taps the walls during the quote to check; be wary of anyone who doesn't.

It is one of the messiest trades — expect splatter, dust and high humidity. Empty the room if possible, or centre furniture under sheeting. Floors should be fully covered. Ask whether the quote includes protecting surfaces and cleaning up.

No — plaster over damp fails within months. The moisture source (rising damp, leaking gutter, condensation) must be fixed first, then damaged plaster cut back and replaced, sometimes with a salt-resistant renovation plaster. Any plasterer who skips the cause is selling you a repeat job.

Skimming is a thin 2-3 mm finish coat applied over existing plaster or plasterboard to give a smooth paintable surface. Full plastering means building up base (browning/bonding) coats plus a finish coat, needed when old plaster is blown, damp-damaged or removed back to brick.

A skim coat is touch-dry in a day but needs roughly a week to fully dry before painting; full re-plaster can take several weeks depending on thickness, ventilation and season. Paint too early and you trap moisture, causing peeling. Use a mist coat (diluted emulsion) first.

Fine crazing usually means the plaster dried too fast (heat, draughts) and is cosmetic — fill and paint. Straight-line cracks along boards or above doors indicate movement at joints. Wide or recurring cracks are worth a builder's inspection before redecorating.

Sometimes, but true plaster repair (reattaching keys, veneer coats) is a specialty. Drywall contractors often just cut out plaster and board over, which changes wall depth and trim reveals. For historic homes, seek a plaster specialist.