Paving & Driveways in Gillette

A skimped sub-base. The surface layer gets the attention, but 100-200mm of properly compacted hardcore beneath it is what stops sinking, cracking and rutting. Quotes that are far below the rest usually save money underground where you cannot see it.

Gravel, by a wide margin — but it migrates, ruts and needs topping up. Asphalt is usually the cheapest solid surface, concrete lasts longer for slightly more, and pavers cost most upfront but can be lifted and relaid if services underneath need work.

Yes. 'We have leftover asphalt from a job down the road' is a classic scam — the material is often laid thin over no base and fails within months, and the crew is untraceable. Reputable paving firms price from a site visit and written spec, not from surplus material on a truck.

Yes — water must drain to a lawful outfall or soak into the ground. Many jurisdictions now require permeable paving or on-site soakaways when front gardens are paved, precisely to stop rain sheeting onto the street. A good contractor designs falls and drainage before laying anything.

Often yes — asphalt can be overlaid if the base is sound, concrete can sometimes be resurfaced or used as a base for pavers, and sunken block paving can be lifted and relaid on fresh bedding. If the base has failed (widespread cracking, deep ruts), resurfacing only buys a year or two.

Asphalt costs less upfront and handles freeze-thaw well (it flexes), which is why it dominates in northern states; concrete lasts longer and stays cooler in southern heat. Sealing asphalt every 3-5 years is the maintenance trade-off.