TV Mounting in Wembley

A professional installer should carry public liability insurance that covers wall damage and a dropped or fallen TV. Ask for proof before booking, and ask whether they guarantee their fixings (many offer 12 months or lifetime on workmanship). Keep the receipt — home insurance claims for fallen TVs often hinge on showing it was professionally installed.

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

Either works. Buying your own mount is usually cheaper — check it matches your TV's VESA pattern (the four bolt holes on the back, e.g. 400x400) and its rated weight. Many installers also sell mounts on the day at a markup of roughly 20-50% over retail. If you buy your own, tell the installer the model so they bring the right fixings.

Under 43 inches is a reasonable DIY job if you can find studs and use a level. From 55 inches up, a second pair of hands is essential and mistakes get expensive — a 65-inch panel weighs 20-25 kg and modern bezel-less screens crack easily if gripped wrong. Professionals also carry stud finders, cable detectors, and masonry drills most households lack.

Usually only with the landlord's written permission, since mounting leaves 4-6 anchor holes. Many tenancy agreements class it as an alteration. Alternatives that need no drilling: a TV floor stand, or a heavy-duty easel-style mount. If you do get permission, keep the mount and ask the installer to patch holes when you move out — it is a quick filler-and-paint job.

Yes if done properly, but check two things: heat (run the fireplace for 30 minutes and confirm the wall above stays below about 40C / 100F, or fit a mantel to deflect heat) and viewing angle (a pull-down or tilting mount stops neck strain). Above-fireplace installs cost more because the wall is usually brick or stone and cable routing is harder.

Yes — dot-and-dab (plasterboard glued over brick or block, common in post-1980s UK homes) needs special fixings such as corefix bolts that pass through the board into the masonry behind. Standard plasterboard anchors alone are not safe for TVs over about 40 inches on these walls, so tell the installer if your wall sounds hollow but feels solid behind.

No. Hiding aerial and HDMI cables in the wall or in trunking is not notifiable work. Part P applies only if you add a new socket, fused spur, or extend a circuit behind the TV — that part must be done by a registered electrician (NICEIC/NAPIT) or notified to building control.