TV Mounting in Solihull

A professional installer should carry public liability insurance that covers wall damage and a dropped or fallen TV. Ask for proof before booking, and ask whether they guarantee their fixings (many offer 12 months or lifetime on workmanship). Keep the receipt — home insurance claims for fallen TVs often hinge on showing it was professionally installed.

Usually only with the landlord's written permission, since mounting leaves 4-6 anchor holes. Many tenancy agreements class it as an alteration. Alternatives that need no drilling: a TV floor stand, or a heavy-duty easel-style mount. If you do get permission, keep the mount and ask the installer to patch holes when you move out — it is a quick filler-and-paint job.

Fixed mounts sit flattest against the wall and are cheapest. Tilting mounts angle down 5-15 degrees — useful when the TV sits above eye level. Full-motion (articulating) mounts extend and swivel, which suits corner installs or rooms with multiple viewing positions; they cost the most and need the most secure fixing because the load hangs away from the wall.

Small TVs (under about 40 inches) can go on hollow drywall with heavy-duty toggle anchors rated for the load, but most professionals prefer to hit at least one stud or install a plywood backing board. For TVs over 50 inches, mounting into studs or masonry is strongly recommended — anchor-only installs on hollow walls are the most common cause of fallen TVs.

Most TV mounting jobs are priced as a flat rate per TV, driven by three things: TV size, mount type (fixed, tilting, or full-motion), and wall material. Drywall or plasterboard with timber studs is the cheapest; brick, concrete, or above-fireplace installs cost more. Cable concealment is usually a separate add-on. Ask for the all-in price for your exact TV size and wall type before booking.

Yes — dot-and-dab (plasterboard glued over brick or block, common in post-1980s UK homes) needs special fixings such as corefix bolts that pass through the board into the masonry behind. Standard plasterboard anchors alone are not safe for TVs over about 40 inches on these walls, so tell the installer if your wall sounds hollow but feels solid behind.

No. Hiding aerial and HDMI cables in the wall or in trunking is not notifiable work. Part P applies only if you add a new socket, fused spur, or extend a circuit behind the TV — that part must be done by a registered electrician (NICEIC/NAPIT) or notified to building control.