TV Mounting in Salford

Yes — brick and concrete are actually stronger than drywall for mounting. The installer uses a hammer drill and masonry anchors (sleeve or wedge anchors). It costs more than a stud wall because drilling is slower and cable concealment usually has to run in surface trunking rather than inside the wall.

Get the quote itemised: mounting labour, the mount itself (if supplied), cable concealment, and any electrical work. Quotes in Salford that look unusually cheap often exclude the mount or charge extra on arrival for masonry walls. A fair comparison is the all-in price for your exact TV size, wall type, and cable finish.

For seated viewing, the centre of the screen should sit at seated eye level — roughly 100-110 cm (40-43 inches) from the floor for a sofa. For a 65-inch TV that means the bottom edge sits around 60-70 cm up. Mount higher only if you use a tilting mount, e.g. above a fireplace or in a bedroom viewed from the bed.

Yes if done properly, but check two things: heat (run the fireplace for 30 minutes and confirm the wall above stays below about 40C / 100F, or fit a mantel to deflect heat) and viewing angle (a pull-down or tilting mount stops neck strain). Above-fireplace installs cost more because the wall is usually brick or stone and cable routing is harder.

Yes — dot-and-dab (plasterboard glued over brick or block, common in post-1980s UK homes) needs special fixings such as corefix bolts that pass through the board into the masonry behind. Standard plasterboard anchors alone are not safe for TVs over about 40 inches on these walls, so tell the installer if your wall sounds hollow but feels solid behind.

No. Hiding aerial and HDMI cables in the wall or in trunking is not notifiable work. Part P applies only if you add a new socket, fused spur, or extend a circuit behind the TV — that part must be done by a registered electrician (NICEIC/NAPIT) or notified to building control.