TV Mounting in Basingstoke

Yes, and it is cheaper to bundle than to book twice. Soundbar brackets attach either to the wall below the TV or to the TV mount itself. Consoles and set-top boxes go on a small floating shelf or behind-TV bracket. Expect a modest add-on charge per extra device, plus cable management for each.

Most will, as a small add-on — typically a quarter to half the price of a fresh install. Dismount-and-remount in a new home (or after moving the sofa) is a standard job; mention it when booking so the installer brings patching filler for the old holes.

Usually only with the landlord's written permission, since mounting leaves 4-6 anchor holes. Many tenancy agreements class it as an alteration. Alternatives that need no drilling: a TV floor stand, or a heavy-duty easel-style mount. If you do get permission, keep the mount and ask the installer to patch holes when you move out — it is a quick filler-and-paint job.

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

Yes — brick and concrete are actually stronger than drywall for mounting. The installer uses a hammer drill and masonry anchors (sleeve or wedge anchors). It costs more than a stud wall because drilling is slower and cable concealment usually has to run in surface trunking rather than inside the wall.

Yes — dot-and-dab (plasterboard glued over brick or block, common in post-1980s UK homes) needs special fixings such as corefix bolts that pass through the board into the masonry behind. Standard plasterboard anchors alone are not safe for TVs over about 40 inches on these walls, so tell the installer if your wall sounds hollow but feels solid behind.

No. Hiding aerial and HDMI cables in the wall or in trunking is not notifiable work. Part P applies only if you add a new socket, fused spur, or extend a circuit behind the TV — that part must be done by a registered electrician (NICEIC/NAPIT) or notified to building control.