TV Mounting in National Capital Region

Fixed mounts sit flattest against the wall and are cheapest. Tilting mounts angle down 5-15 degrees — useful when the TV sits above eye level. Full-motion (articulating) mounts extend and swivel, which suits corner installs or rooms with multiple viewing positions; they cost the most and need the most secure fixing because the load hangs away from the wall.

Yes — brick and concrete are actually stronger than drywall for mounting. The installer uses a hammer drill and masonry anchors (sleeve or wedge anchors). It costs more than a stud wall because drilling is slower and cable concealment usually has to run in surface trunking rather than inside the wall.

Yes if done properly, but check two things: heat (run the fireplace for 30 minutes and confirm the wall above stays below about 40C / 100F, or fit a mantel to deflect heat) and viewing angle (a pull-down or tilting mount stops neck strain). Above-fireplace installs cost more because the wall is usually brick or stone and cable routing is harder.

Small TVs (under about 40 inches) can go on hollow drywall with heavy-duty toggle anchors rated for the load, but most professionals prefer to hit at least one stud or install a plywood backing board. For TVs over 50 inches, mounting into studs or masonry is strongly recommended — anchor-only installs on hollow walls are the most common cause of fallen TVs.

In most condo buildings, yes — the admin office issues a work permit or gate pass for any contractor doing drilling, usually free or a small fee, sometimes requiring the installer's ID a day in advance. House installs need no permit. Arrange it before booking to avoid a wasted visit.

Yes with the right anchors — concrete hollow block (CHB) is the standard Filipino wall, and installers use sleeve anchors or chemical anchors into the solid webs, avoiding the hollow cores. For 65-inch-plus TVs, ask specifically how they will anchor; plastic plugs into hollow cores are the main failure mode.