TV Mounting in Mariveles

Yes, and it is cheaper to bundle than to book twice. Soundbar brackets attach either to the wall below the TV or to the TV mount itself. Consoles and set-top boxes go on a small floating shelf or behind-TV bracket. Expect a modest add-on charge per extra device, plus cable management for each.

Most will, as a small add-on — typically a quarter to half the price of a fresh install. Dismount-and-remount in a new home (or after moving the sofa) is a standard job; mention it when booking so the installer brings patching filler for the old holes.

Usually only with the landlord's written permission, since mounting leaves 4-6 anchor holes. Many tenancy agreements class it as an alteration. Alternatives that need no drilling: a TV floor stand, or a heavy-duty easel-style mount. If you do get permission, keep the mount and ask the installer to patch holes when you move out — it is a quick filler-and-paint job.

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

Yes — brick and concrete are actually stronger than drywall for mounting. The installer uses a hammer drill and masonry anchors (sleeve or wedge anchors). It costs more than a stud wall because drilling is slower and cable concealment usually has to run in surface trunking rather than inside the wall.

In most condo buildings, yes — the admin office issues a work permit or gate pass for any contractor doing drilling, usually free or a small fee, sometimes requiring the installer's ID a day in advance. House installs need no permit. Arrange it before booking to avoid a wasted visit.

Yes with the right anchors — concrete hollow block (CHB) is the standard Filipino wall, and installers use sleeve anchors or chemical anchors into the solid webs, avoiding the hollow cores. For 65-inch-plus TVs, ask specifically how they will anchor; plastic plugs into hollow cores are the main failure mode.