TV Mounting in Bulaon

Not for the mounting itself. You need one only if you want a new power outlet behind the TV, since fixed wiring is electrician-only work in most countries. Many TV mounting companies partner with an electrician or offer the outlet as an add-on — ask when booking so it happens in one visit.

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

Fixed mounts sit flattest against the wall and are cheapest. Tilting mounts angle down 5-15 degrees — useful when the TV sits above eye level. Full-motion (articulating) mounts extend and swivel, which suits corner installs or rooms with multiple viewing positions; they cost the most and need the most secure fixing because the load hangs away from the wall.

Yes — brick and concrete are actually stronger than drywall for mounting. The installer uses a hammer drill and masonry anchors (sleeve or wedge anchors). It costs more than a stud wall because drilling is slower and cable concealment usually has to run in surface trunking rather than inside the wall.

In most condo buildings, yes — the admin office issues a work permit or gate pass for any contractor doing drilling, usually free or a small fee, sometimes requiring the installer's ID a day in advance. House installs need no permit. Arrange it before booking to avoid a wasted visit.

Yes with the right anchors — concrete hollow block (CHB) is the standard Filipino wall, and installers use sleeve anchors or chemical anchors into the solid webs, avoiding the hollow cores. For 65-inch-plus TVs, ask specifically how they will anchor; plastic plugs into hollow cores are the main failure mode.