Artificial Grass Installation in Dublin

Laying straight onto turf or soil is a false economy — it sinks, ruts, grows weeds through and drains badly. A proper install removes the topsoil and builds an engineered base. If a quote skips excavation, expect problems within a year or two.

Cost is driven by area and the quality of the turf, but the groundwork matters just as much: excavating the old lawn, laying and compacting a sub-base, adding a weed membrane and joining the rolls. Cheap quotes often skimp on the base, which is exactly where failures show up.

A typical build-up is: excavate ~75-100mm, lay a compacted crushed-stone sub-base, a sharp-sand or granite-dust screed, a weed-membrane, then the turf pinned and joined, sometimes with a kiln-dried sand infill. Skipping layers is the number-one cause of lumps, weeds and movement.

In Dublin, ask to see completed installs a year or more old, get the base build-up specified in writing, and compare three quotes on groundwork depth, not just turf price. A cheap install that skips the sub-base costs more to fix later.

Good turf is perforated and, over a correctly built free-draining sub-base, drains as well as or better than natural lawn. Poor drainage — a compacted or clay base with no permeable layer — causes puddling and smell, so ask exactly how the installer handles drainage.

Far less than a real lawn: occasional brushing to keep the pile upright, rinsing, and removing leaves and pet mess. It never needs mowing, watering or feeding — the main upkeep is keeping debris off so moss doesn't establish on the surface.

A quality product installed on a proper base lasts around 15-20 years, with UV stabilisers preventing fading. Lifespan collapses when the sub-base is thin or poorly drained — the turf itself rarely fails first, the ground under it does.

Yes, when laid on a properly free-draining sub-base — the perforated turf drains through the base. On heavy clay, the installer must build in drainage; skip that and you get puddling and green algae on the surface.