TV Mounting in LOHAS Park

Under 43 inches is a reasonable DIY job if you can find studs and use a level. From 55 inches up, a second pair of hands is essential and mistakes get expensive — a 65-inch panel weighs 20-25 kg and modern bezel-less screens crack easily if gripped wrong. Professionals also carry stud finders, cable detectors, and masonry drills most households lack.

Either works. Buying your own mount is usually cheaper — check it matches your TV's VESA pattern (the four bolt holes on the back, e.g. 400x400) and its rated weight. Many installers also sell mounts on the day at a markup of roughly 20-50% over retail. If you buy your own, tell the installer the model so they bring the right fixings.

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

A professional installer should carry public liability insurance that covers wall damage and a dropped or fallen TV. Ask for proof before booking, and ask whether they guarantee their fixings (many offer 12 months or lifetime on workmanship). Keep the receipt — home insurance claims for fallen TVs often hinge on showing it was professionally installed.

Most TV mounting jobs are priced as a flat rate per TV, driven by three things: TV size, mount type (fixed, tilting, or full-motion), and wall material. Drywall or plasterboard with timber studs is the cheapest; brick, concrete, or above-fireplace installs cost more. Cable concealment is usually a separate add-on. Ask for the all-in price for your exact TV size and wall type before booking.

Yes — brick and concrete are actually stronger than drywall for mounting. The installer uses a hammer drill and masonry anchors (sleeve or wedge anchors). It costs more than a stud wall because drilling is slower and cable concealment usually has to run in surface trunking rather than inside the wall.

Most estates' deeds of mutual covenant and management offices restrict noisy works (including hammer drilling) to weekday daytime hours, often roughly 9am-6pm excluding Sundays and public holidays. Book your installer within those windows to avoid the job being stopped mid-way by the management office.

Every install is a concrete drill job — hammer drilling reinforced concrete takes longer and wears tools, and installers often carry rebar detectors to avoid cutting reinforcement. Cable concealment is trunking-only. The flat-rate quote reflects concrete work as the default, not an add-on.