TV Mounting in Kwai Chung

In hollow drywall or plasterboard walls, yes — installers cut two small openings and drop low-voltage cables (HDMI, antenna) inside the cavity. Power cables usually cannot legally go in-wall as ordinary extension leads; the compliant options are an in-wall rated power relocation kit or a new outlet behind the TV installed by an electrician. On solid brick or concrete walls, cables run in paintable surface trunking instead.

Yes, and it is cheaper to bundle than to book twice. Soundbar brackets attach either to the wall below the TV or to the TV mount itself. Consoles and set-top boxes go on a small floating shelf or behind-TV bracket. Expect a modest add-on charge per extra device, plus cable management for each.

Either works. Buying your own mount is usually cheaper — check it matches your TV's VESA pattern (the four bolt holes on the back, e.g. 400x400) and its rated weight. Many installers also sell mounts on the day at a markup of roughly 20-50% over retail. If you buy your own, tell the installer the model so they bring the right fixings.

Not for the mounting itself. You need one only if you want a new power outlet behind the TV, since fixed wiring is electrician-only work in most countries. Many TV mounting companies partner with an electrician or offer the outlet as an add-on — ask when booking so it happens in one visit.

Under 43 inches is a reasonable DIY job if you can find studs and use a level. From 55 inches up, a second pair of hands is essential and mistakes get expensive — a 65-inch panel weighs 20-25 kg and modern bezel-less screens crack easily if gripped wrong. Professionals also carry stud finders, cable detectors, and masonry drills most households lack.

Small TVs (under about 40 inches) can go on hollow drywall with heavy-duty toggle anchors rated for the load, but most professionals prefer to hit at least one stud or install a plywood backing board. For TVs over 50 inches, mounting into studs or masonry is strongly recommended — anchor-only installs on hollow walls are the most common cause of fallen TVs.

Most estates' deeds of mutual covenant and management offices restrict noisy works (including hammer drilling) to weekday daytime hours, often roughly 9am-6pm excluding Sundays and public holidays. Book your installer within those windows to avoid the job being stopped mid-way by the management office.

Every install is a concrete drill job — hammer drilling reinforced concrete takes longer and wears tools, and installers often carry rebar detectors to avoid cutting reinforcement. Cable concealment is trunking-only. The flat-rate quote reflects concrete work as the default, not an add-on.