Artificial Grass Installation in Abu Dhabi

A typical build-up is: excavate ~75-100mm, lay a compacted crushed-stone sub-base, a sharp-sand or granite-dust screed, a weed-membrane, then the turf pinned and joined, sometimes with a kiln-dried sand infill. Skipping layers is the number-one cause of lumps, weeds and movement.

Laying straight onto turf or soil is a false economy — it sinks, ruts, grows weeds through and drains badly. A proper install removes the topsoil and builds an engineered base. If a quote skips excavation, expect problems within a year or two.

Quality turf is non-toxic and lead-free (check the certification), and pet-friendly ranges drain urine and can be rinsed. Antimicrobial infills help with odour. Confirm the product is certified for the intended use rather than a generic import.

Far less than a real lawn: occasional brushing to keep the pile upright, rinsing, and removing leaves and pet mess. It never needs mowing, watering or feeding — the main upkeep is keeping debris off so moss doesn't establish on the surface.

Cost is driven by area and the quality of the turf, but the groundwork matters just as much: excavating the old lawn, laying and compacting a sub-base, adding a weed membrane and joining the rolls. Cheap quotes often skimp on the base, which is exactly where failures show up.

Quality UV-stabilised turf lasts, but the surface gets very hot in peak summer sun — choose lighter, cooler-yarn products for play areas and rinse to cool. It saves the heavy irrigation cost of keeping natural grass alive here.